Despite a culinary rivalry, the sister cities El Paso and Ciudad Juárez can agree that a simple burrito is the best burrito.
One bite of a chile verde con papas burrito at Burritos Sarita in Ciudad Juárez, Mexico, has the power to shatter whatever preconceived notions you have about burritos. In it, a pillowy-soft flour tortilla, with hints of smoke from the griddle, swaddles a fragrant mix of tender potatoes, caramelized onions and fire-roasted chile verde that is coated in a salty and tangy thick crema.
From start to finish, the tin-foiled treasure is delicate and neat. Burrito renditions far from this border city tend to be overstuffed, oversized, overdressed and overblown. But here, a purist burrito, as locals call it, has only what it needs: one tortilla, one filling.
Recipes: Burritos de Chile Verde con Papas (Chile Verde Burritos With Potatoes) | Flour Tortillas
“It is our hallmark,” said Paty Covarrubias, the food truck’s general manager, of burritos’ importance to the city. She has been working for her aunt Sarita Alfaro’s business since she was 14.
“My tía taught me you have to know how to make every part of the burrito yourself,” she said. Ms. Covarrubias had been up since 3:50 a.m. preparing daily guisados, or stews, and kneading flour tortillas before opening at 8:30 a.m.
Just across the Rio Grande, this quintessential comida fronteriza — border food — is just as integral to the cultural identity of El Paso, Juárez’s sister city in the United States.
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November 29, 2023 at 06:22PM
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The Perfect Burrito is a Thin, Foil-Wrapped Treasure - The New York Times
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