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Monday, February 27, 2023

Basic to beautiful: Four meat-free recipes from The Shared Kitchen cookbook - Good Food

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Those workhorses of the kitchen – common ingredients such as apples, carrots, potatoes and zucchini – get their moment in the spotlight in Clare Scrine's second cookbook, The Shared Kitchen: Beautiful Meals, Made From Basics. 

It's a follow-up to The Shared Table, which celebrated vegetarian and vegan share-house classics such as mac and cheese, baked beans and brownies.

This time, the Brisbane-based writer has focused on creative ways to make staple ingredients special, while reducing food waste. Here are some of her favourite recipes – all meat-free and many suitable for vegans.

Clare Scrine's new cookbook.
Clare Scrine's new cookbook. Photo: Yaseera Moosa

Zucchini and mozzarella ratatouille with gremolata 

This dish makes a beautiful centrepiece to a shared meal or a great addition to a potluck dinner and, despite its simplicity, I think it really makes the zucchini shine. I love serving it alongside garlic bread and a simple leafy salad. If you have a good ovenproof frypan, this is a great one-pan meal. 

INGREDIENTS

  • 60ml (¼ cup) olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
  • 1 onion, finely diced
  • 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 2 x 400g cans crushed tomatoes
  • 1 tsp dried or fresh oregano
  • 2 tsp brown sugar
  • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • salt and pepper
  • 3-4 zucchini, sliced into 2mm thick rounds
  • 200g ball of mozzarella, thinly sliced

Gremolata

  • 80g (½ cup) almonds, toasted and roughly chopped
  • zest and juice of 1 small lemon
  • 60ml (¼ cup) olive oil
  • salt and pepper
  • ½ bunch of basil, leaves roughly chopped 

METHOD

  1. Heat the olive oil in an ovenproof frypan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes or until starting to brown. Add the garlic and cook for two minutes or until fragrant, then add the tomatoes and oregano and cook, stirring well, for five minutes. Add the brown sugar, vinegar and some salt and pepper, and stir well to combine. Add a splash of water, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 10-15 minutes, until very thick and rich.
  2. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200C fan-forced (220C conventional).
  3. Toss the zucchini and mozzarella in a generous drizzle of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.
  4. Take the pan off the heat, check the seasoning and adjust if necessary. Starting at the outer edge, arrange the zucchini in concentric circles, overlapping each slice by about a third and placing at an angle so they nestle in the sauce. Add a slice of mozzarella every three to four slices of zucchini. Transfer to the oven and bake for 20-30 minutes, until the top is brown and the sauce is bubbling up through the zucchini.
  5. Meanwhile, combine all the ingredients for the gremolata in a mortar and, using the pestle, pound for one to two minutes to create a chunky paste. If you don't have a mortar and pestle, simply add the ingredients, except the juice and oil, to a large chopping board and chop until well combined. Add to a bowl and stir through the juice and oil. Taste the gremolata and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Add an extra drizzle of olive oil or a tablespoon of water to loosen the gremolata to a spoonable consistency. Serve the ratatouille fresh from the oven, dotted with the gremolata and an extra drizzle of olive oil.

Swaps:

Vegan – mozzarella: roasted eggplant slices, cooked potato slices or vegan cheese

Almonds – toasted walnuts or pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

Zucchini – eggplant, mushrooms, capsicum or fennel

Serves 4-6

Shaved broccoli & avocado salad from The Shared Kitchen by Clare Scrine. Photography by Yaseera Moosa Single print and online use only. For Good Food, Jan 31, 2023

The smoky, salty nuts finish off this salad beautifully with some welcome crunch. Photo: Yaseera Moosa

Shaved broccoli and avocado salad

Please. Make. This. Salad. It's so easy and quick to make (especially if you use a mandoline or food processor to chop all the broccoli), as well as being delicious and moreish, and a perfect way to eat a big bowl of raw vegetables when that urge strikes. The dressing really carries the salad – it's super hearty and coats everything generously in a soft green blanket. The smoky, salty nuts finish it off beautifully with some welcome crunch. You could add some extra vegies or sub out some of the broccoli for peas or broad beans, and serve with some falafels or vegie patties for a delicious dinner.

INGREDIENTS

  • 100g (⅔ cup) almonds, roughly chopped
  • 1 tbsp soy sauce or tamari
  • 600g broccoli (about 2 small-medium heads), stalks and florets finely chopped or sliced
  • ½ red onion, finely diced
  • 1½ avocados, chopped into 1cm cubes
  • 20g (1 cup) flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Chickpea dressing

  • 400g can chickpeas, including the soaking liquid
  • 1 tbsp tahini
  • ½ avocado
  • 1 tbsp maple syrup
  • 1 tbsp lime juice, plus extra if needed
  • 30g (1 cup) coriander leaves
  • 2 tbsp soy sauce or tamari
  • salt and pepper

METHOD

  1. Heat a frypan over medium heat and add the almonds. Cook, stirring often, for a few minutes, until they begin to brown. Turn off the heat, drizzle over the soy sauce and stir to combine – the soy sauce will sizzle and evaporate quickly. Remove the almonds from the pan and set aside to cool.
  2. Prepare the chickpea dressing by blending all of the ingredients in a blender or food processor to a thick, smoothie-like consistency. Taste and add additional seasoning or lime juice if needed. The dressing is mild in flavour, but it's important that it has a hum of seasoning and citrus.
  3. Combine all the remaining salad ingredients in a large bowl, mixing them well to combine. Pour the dressing over the top and toss to coat the vegies. Transfer to a serving dish, or wipe down the edge of the bowl you're using. Scatter over the toasted almonds and serve.

Serves 6-8 as a side

Yaseera Moosa – Tue, 17. January 2023 5:54 PMThe Shared Kitchen by Clare ScrineSticky sesame cauliflower with noodles & herby salad from The Shared Kitchen by Clare Scrine. Photography by Yaseera Moosa Single print and online use only. For Good Food, Jan 31, 2023

This cauli salad makes a wonderful and healthy meal. Photo: Yaseera Moosa

Sticky sesame cauliflower with noodles and herby salad

When you want to feast on something fresh and light but packed full of flavour, this is a perfect dish. Far from a traditional Thai larb, with no pork, or ground sticky rice, it is still reminiscent of this famous salad – and craving it inspired me to make this for the first time. And with quick-pickled cucumbers, shredded cabbage and dressed rice noodles, it's such a wonderful and healthy meal. Pre-mixed Chinese five spice is a cheat's addition to the cauliflower, but you can make up your own with star anise, cloves, cinnamon, fennel and pepper (or as many of these spices as you have) if you don't have a jar of the stuff on the go.

INGREDIENTS

  • 3 tbsp sesame seeds
  • 3 tsp Chinese five spice
  • 2 tsp smoky paprika
  • 60ml (¼ cup) olive oil
  • 2 tsp brown sugar
  • 2 tbsp soy sauce or tamari
  • 500g cauliflower (about 1 large head), chopped into small 2cm chunks
  • 40g (¼ cup) roasted peanut halves

Herby salad

  • 2 tsp sesame oil
  • 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
  • salt and pepper
  • 3 small cucumbers or 1 large, sliced into shards on the diagonal
  • 200g thick "pad Thai" rice noodles
  • bunch of coriander, leaves picked
  • bunch of mint, leaves picked
  • ½ red onion, thinly sliced
  • ¼ white cabbage, shredded

Dressing

  • 60ml (¼ cup) vegan fish sauce
  • juice of 2 small limes
  • 1 tbsp brown sugar
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • ½ bird's eye chilli, finely chopped (optional)

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 200C fan-forced (220C conventional). Line a large baking tray with baking paper.
  2. In a small bowl, mix together the sesame seeds, spices, olive oil, sugar and soy sauce or tamari to form a thick paste. Spread the cauliflower across the prepared tray and dollop the marinade over the top. Use your hands to toss the cauliflower and coat it in the mixture. Transfer to the oven and bake for 20-30 minutes, turning the cauliflower halfway through cooking, until starting to char and the pieces have shrunk to about one-third of their original size. Add the peanuts to the tray and toss well. Return to the oven for a final five minutes, to warm the nuts.
  3. Meanwhile, to make the herby salad, combine the sesame oil, rice wine vinegar and a generous pinch of salt and pepper in a bowl. Add the cucumber and toss to coat, then set aside to pickle until ready to serve.
  4. In a separate bowl, whisk together the dressing ingredients and 80ml (⅓ cup) of water and set aside.
  5. Cook the noodles according to the packet directions, then drain under cool running water to prevent the noodles becoming gluggy. Toss the noodles with the herbs and onion, along with about half the dressing. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with the warm cauliflower, cabbage and quick-pickled cucumber. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the top and serve.

Serves 4-6

Tomato & halloumi galette from The Shared Kitchen by Clare Scrine. Photography by Yaseera Moosa Single print and online use only. For Good Food, Jan 31, 2023

Toum and zaatar combine beautifully in this Middle Eastern-inspired galette. Photo: Yaseera Moosa

Tomato and halloumi galette

In this Middle Eastern-inspired galette, toum and zaatar combine beautifully with halloumi and tomato, encased in an easy home-made puff pastry. The tomato hides all these secret additions, so when you eat it there are heaps of unexpected flavours and textures that make it a delight to eat. It's a perfect vegetarian main or addition to a spread. It can be made ahead and eaten at room temperature, and it's pretty sturdy too, so can be easily transported to the park for a picnic.

INGREDIENTS

  • 600g tomatoes (mix of colours and sizes if possible), sliced (or halved if using cherry tomatoes)
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 200g toum (Lebanese garlic dip)
  • 250g halloumi, sliced into 5mm thick slabs
  • 2 tsp zaatar
  • 1 tsp fennel seeds
  • 1 egg, beaten

Simple puff pastry

  • 150g salted cold butter, cut into cubes
  • 260g (1¾ cups) plain flour, plus extra if needed and for dusting
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 80ml (⅓ cup) ice-cold water, plus extra if needed

To serve

  • handful of oregano and basil leaves
  • olive oil
  • extra zaatar

METHOD

  1. To make the pastry, place the butter, flour and salt in a large bowl and use your fingers to rub the butter into the flour until well distributed but with some large chunks remaining. This can also be done in a food processor using the pulse function. Add the ice-cold water and bring the dough into a rough ball with your hands, working it just enough so that it smooshes together, adding a little extra water or flour as needed.
  2. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and roll it out to a large square, about 2mm thick. Fold the dough over itself a few times to form a rough cube (this creates layers of pastry, which will help it puff up when cooked). Wrap the pastry in a clean tea towel or plastic wrap and set aside in the fridge for about an hour, until very firm. You can make the dough up to two days ahead.
  3. Meanwhile, transfer the tomato to a colander set over a large bowl. Sprinkle over the salt, toss gently to combine and leave to drain for 15-20 minutes – this will prevent your galette having a soggy bottom.
  4. Once your dough is firm, preheat the oven to 200C fan-forced (220C conventional). Line a large baking tray with baking paper.
  5. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface to a 45cm large circle. Gently roll it up onto the rolling pin, then unroll onto the prepared tray. Don't worry if the pastry is bigger than the tray, as you'll fold in the edges.
  6. Spread the toum across the centre of the pastry, leaving a 5cm border. Place the halloumi on top and sprinkle with the zaatar and fennel seeds. Give the tomato a gentle toss to extract any final liquid, then arrange on top of the halloumi. Fold over the pastry edge to form a galette and brush with the beaten egg. Transfer to the oven and bake for 25-35 minutes, until the crust is deep golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature, topped with oregano and basil leaves, a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of zaatar.

Swaps:

Vegan – simple puff pastry: store-bought vegan puff pastry; omit the halloumi or use vegan cheese, caramelised onions or roasted eggplant slices

Toum – 80g (⅓ cup) garlicky aioli or 60ml (¼ cup) olive oil blended with 3 garlic cloves and a pinch of salt

Serves 4-6

This is an edited extract from The Shared Kitchen by Clare Scrine, published by Smith Street Books, distributed by Thames & Hudson Australia, AU$45.00. Buy now

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Rachel Roddy’s recipe for broad bean, potato and fennel soup - The Guardian

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About 14 miles west of Leicester there is a hamlet called Barton in the Beans. I have visited only by Google Street View but it is mentioned in the Doomsday Book as Bartone, which signified a barley enclosure or farm owned by the lord of a manor. It is noted as having a population of three households in 1086, putting it in the smallest 20% of settlements recorded (although, rest assured, the lord of the manor, Hugh of Grandmesnil, and his family had oodles of other land). Bartone became Barton in Fabis, fabis being the latin for beans, in this case vicia faba – broad, fava or faba beans – and then later Barton in the Beans: production perpetuated in a name. Importantly, though, bean cultivation in the area – and the consumption of broad and field beans by humans and animals – predates the name, going back to the iron age, and possibly even the bronze age.

170 miles south, in Somerset, a variety of broad beans took the name of the village where they originated; Martock beans became a staple not only for fasting and bean feasting, but were a fundamental part of the medieval survival diet. They were eaten both fresh and dried, meaning simmered for soups and stews, baked in the oven or ground into flour. According to Marwood Yeatman, in his book The Last Food of England, the Martock bean was mentioned in the manorial rolls of 1273, and also in a saying that goes: “If you shake a Martock man, he rattles.”

A dried broad bean rattle is a good rattle. Especially when it’s the split ones, which look like bone buttons or unfortunate teeth, and, when held between two cupped hands, are almost as good as a shaker. They soften to become creamy and floury, with a flavour that’s somewhere between a pea, cannellini bean, chickpea and chestnut; I’d love dried split broad beans even if they required long soaking. The fact they only need a brief one, which can be skipped, makes them even more lovable and useful.

They are also mischievous beans that trick you twice. First when they kid you that they are not going to soften, so you chase one round the pan, taste and worry, and the next thing you know they are a soft and collapsing soup. The second time is when, while you are setting the table, they turn soup to hummus. Which is why you have to keep an eye on the amount of liquid when making this week’s recipe for broad bean, potato and fennel soup. If you don’t like fennel, it could be substituted with leek and parsley for flecks of green.

Coming back to sayings, there’s a similar one from the East Midlands and Barton in the Beans, which John Benjamin Firth recorded in 1926 book Highways and Byways of Leicestershire: “Shake a Leicestershire man by the collar and you may hear the beans rattle in his belly.” There is no rattle with soup of course – it is too soothing for that.

Dried broad bean, potato and fennel soup

Soak 1 hr (optional)
Prep 5 min
Cook 50 min
Serves 4

200g dried (shelled and split) broad beans
4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, peeled and diced
1 medium potato, peeled and diced
1 small bulb of fennel, trimmed and diced, with any frilly fronds set apart
Salt and black pepper

If you have time, soak the dried broad beans in water for an hour, then drain. If you don’t have time, they will just take longer to cook.

In a soup pan, soften the onion in the olive oil with a pinch of salt, then add the beans, potato and fennel and cook, stirring, for a few minutes.

Add 1.3 litres of water and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, half covered, for 40 minutes, or until the beans are soft and collapsing. The soup should remain slightly brothy, so add a bit more water if needed.

In the last moments of cooking, taste and add salt and pepper as needed, as well as the fennel fronds. Serve with a swirl of olive oil.

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What to Cook This Week - The New York Times

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Shrimp tacos, maash ki daal and more recipes.

Photograph by Sarah Anne Ward. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Paola Andrea.

Good morning. I’ve been cooking out of the Italian American larder of late, with lots of sweet and hot pickled cherry peppers. There’s this ace recipe for pork chops in cherry pepper sauce (above) I picked up from the chef Mario Carbone, which I enjoy with a bowl of pasta. I love the peppers in Utica greens, too, and as a topping for a great fried eggplant sandwich. They’re terrific, as well, in this recipe for the chicken scarpariello, shoemaker’s chicken, that The New York Times Cooking team adapted from the one used at Rao’s in New York.

But today, I’m using them in a no-recipe recipe for a sausage Parm sandwich, to cook in the oven and devour in front of a screen. (Maybe watch “The Peripheral” on Amazon Prime?) A no-recipe recipe? It’s a prompt to cook rather than strict instructions for how to do so, a chance for you to stretch your skills, to make a dish your very own.

So: Italian sausages, puréed tomatoes, cherry peppers both sweet and hot, mozzarella, garlic, butter, hero rolls, basil. Roast the sausages in a small baking pan set in a hot oven with just a little bit of oil, so that they pick up a bunch of color and begin to crisp. Tear open and seed the cherry peppers and mix them with just enough tomato sauce to cloak the sausage, then add that sauce to the pan with the meat. Let it bubble and thicken for a while, then top with the cheese and allow it to melt and meld. Meanwhile, make some garlic butter, slather it into the heroes, toast them in the oven and fill with the Parm. Top with torn basil leaves and serve with red pepper flakes.

That is a fine Sunday supper. As for the rest of the week. …

Vallery Lomas has a lovely recipe for grits and greens that’s perfect for a weeknight, even if you don’t follow her lead and make it with quick grits. If you use stone-ground, you can still get the meal on the table in the time it takes to listen to Kai Ryssdal on “Marketplace.”

It’s taco night with Yewande Komolafe, who makes shrimp tacos with a seasoning of cumin, cayenne, onion powder, garlic and black pepper, seared in a hot pan and tucked into warm corn tortillas with crema, pico de gallo, quick pickled cabbage and cilantro.

I think you ought to give Christian Reynoso’s latest recipe a try: a winter squash and rice soup with pancetta that’s a cold-weather version of a similar springtime soup served at Zuni Cafe in San Francisco.

Zainab Shah brought us this fine recipe for maash ki daal, made with urad daal, that would be a fine accompaniment for her quick chicken karahi, with rice.

And then you can head into the weekend with one of my favorite recipes from Ali Slagle: spicy sesame noodles with chicken and peanuts. Nota bene: There are some interesting hacks of the recipe in the notes section. (Straight talk: I use ground pork in place of the ground chicken Ali calls for.)

There are thousands and thousands more recipes to consider cooking this week on New York Times Cooking. You do, yes, need a subscription to read them. Subscriptions are the fuel in our stoves. So I hope, if you haven’t already, that you will subscribe today. (Thanks if you already have.)

In other administrative matters, we’re at cookingcare@nytimes.com if you run into trouble with our technology. And I’m at foodeditor@nytimes.com, if you want to say hello or offer a complaint. I cannot respond to every letter. But I read every one.

Now, it’s a story that lies some considerable distance away from anything to do with mung beans or clotted cream, but you should read Xan Rice’s profile, in The Guardian, of Gary Hunt, “the Lionel Messi of cliff diving.”

Consider the lighthouse. Rosemary Hill certainly has, for The London Review of Books, and her essay is worth reading.

Some good news from Maine as the former Bar Harbor Golf Course goes into stewardship, preserving a mile of undeveloped shoreline near the gateway to Mount Desert Island.

Finally, Feist’s back. Here’s her “Hiding Out In the Open,” from the forthcoming “Multitudes.” Listen to that while you’re cooking. And I’ll return at the end of the week.

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Hot sauce summer: Recipes to make the most of seasonal produce - Good Food

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Late summer gives us a glut of tomatoes and stone fruit that taste like sunshine encapsulated, particularly if you get them direct from farms and smaller producers in the market.
There are times in the restaurant when I get so excited about juicy, green zebra tomatoes, "eating" peppers such as padrons or shishitos or tiny, sweet tropea onions that I order far more than I need for the week, and am stuck with a fridge bursting with produce. It's a wonderful problem to have, but it also means that I've had to learn to make the most of a summer bounty.
Of course, eating tomatoes simply with a glug of good olive oil and a little fish sauce (much better than salt) is also strongly encouraged
–Rosheen Kaul

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Saturday, February 25, 2023

Meera Sodha’s vegan recipe for simple vegetable pulao - The Guardian

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A percentage of my bones are made up of vegetable pulao. It’s a daily part of Gujarati life that I’d overlooked until a recent trip to see my parents. My mum now has arthritis in her hands and her cooking has had to adapt. She can’t, for example, make chapatis any more, with all the kneading and rolling they require, and even the ginger, garlic and chillies that she uses for today’s recipe are processed in a blender in bulk then frozen until needed. Pulao, however, for all its ingredients, is actually a very simple recipe that remains at the heart of her family cooking.

Simple vegetable pulao

You’ll need a large saute pan (mine is 28cm), pot or saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. If you do all the preparation up front, it’s just a question of putting it all into a pan ingredient by ingredient.

Prep 15 min
Cook 45 min
Serves 4

300g basmati rice
4 tbsp sunflower oil
5 cloves
1 stick cinnamon
, broken into pieces
1 large onion (about 275g), peeled and finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
3cm x 3cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
3 green finger chillies, slit lengthways
1½ tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp turmeric
1½ tsp ground coriander
1½ tsp ground cumin
1 large potato
, peeled and cut into 1cm dice (200g net)
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1cm dice (200g net)
150g frozen petit pois
2 tsp fine sea salt
Lemon slices, vegan yoghurt and fresh coriander
, to serve

Put the rice in a bowl, cover with cold water and gently swirl with your hands until the water goes cloudy. Drain and repeat a few more times, until the water remains relatively clear, then drain and cover with fresh cold water and put to one side.

Put four tablespoons of oil in a wide frying pan for which you have a lid, and put on a medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the cloves and cinnamon, leave them them sizzle for a few seconds, then add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10-12 minutes, until the onions begin to brown.

Add the garlic, ginger and finger chillies, cook for three minutes, then stir in the tomato puree and the dry spices (turmeric, coriander and cumin), and cook for a couple of minutes longer. Add the potatoes and carrots, and mix everything well.

Pop the kettle on. Drain the rice really well, then tip the rice, peas and salt into the frying pan, stir and add 520ml just-boiled water. Bring to a rolling boil (this should take about three minutes), then pop on the lid and turn down the heat to a whisper. Leave to simmer for 15 minutes, then take off the heat and leave, still covered, to rest for 10 minutes.

Fluff up the rice with a fork (or spaghetti fork), then serve with lemon slices, vegan yoghurt and fresh coriander.

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Friday, February 24, 2023

Vegetarian borsch with vushka (dumplings) - BBC

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Meat features in many borsch recipes. However, Ukranian chef Ievgen Klopotenko makes a vegetarian version with potatoes, red beans and cabbage – and of course, beetroot as the star.

Cooks and wait staff were criss-crossing behind chef Ievgen Klopotenko at his award-winning 100 Rokiv Tomu Vpered restaurant in Kyiv when he launched into a poetic discussion about borsch. It's a category of food unto itself, he exclaimed; it's the feeling of a mother hugging their child, it's the backbone of Ukrainian strength and culinary identity.

The chef paused every now and again to answer a question or give instructions in Ukrainian. Then he was back at it, proclaiming his love for all things borsch and Ukraine.

[jump to recipe]

Foreign media have referred to Klopotenko as the Jamie Oliver of Ukraine or even as the country's most famous chef. Such praise would once have seemed unlikely. Klopotenko said that he was just cooking eggs "and nothing special" when he was 18. He didn't grow up cooking or learning from his parents or grandparents. Rather, Klopotenko describes himself as "a chef inspired by the internet" because it was a video of Gordon Ramsay that motivated him to follow this path.

The internet opened him up to the broader culinary world. All he knew at the time were foods of the former Soviet Union. But online, he could suddenly find videos on how to cook steak, pasta and many other dishes.

"I saw that in the world exists different ingredients and products," he said. "That's why I started to cook."

Klopotenko and his business partner, Inna Popereshniuk, opened 100 Rokiv Tomu Vpered in March 2019. It was Popereshniuk who called him around 04:00 on 24 February 2022 to let him know that the Russian military had begun their invasion. He said he spent the first week with his parents just outside Kyiv before going to Lviv in western Ukraine for about two months. While there, he opened another restaurant, Inshi bistro, where he started feeding refugees free of charge. Meanwhile, 100 Rokiv Tomu Vpered only closed for two days. On 26 February, it re-opened to serve food for the army, territory defence and people in bomb shelters.

Borsch, a culinary symbol of Ukrainian identity, was among the dishes served. You'd think a Ukrainian chef might get tired talking about borsch, but Klopotenko welcomes the opportunity.

"It's like a song," he smiled, before transitioning into a swift rendition of Haddaway's What Is Love (Baby Don't Hurt Me). "Borsch is pure love."

For Klopotenko, borsch transcends soup. He stressed the cultural importance of the dish. Borsch is a surname, the name of different cities and it plays prominently in different Ukrainian proverbs. "Each family has their unique recipe, so [borsch] is our symbol of Ukraine. It's very important for our culture." 

Like most Ukrainians, Klopotenko grew up eating borsch. His mother made it two different ways: mild; and acidic with beans. The sour version was always his father's favourite. But no matter where he went – to school, visiting friends or to different villages – the borsch was always different.

The conversation quickly shifted into the ongoing Russian war in Ukraine. It's a natural transition because borsch has long been a cultural sticking point between the two countries.

Klopotenko believes Russia has unjustifiably tried to lay claim to borsch. Although neighbouring countries do have their own spins on a beetroot soup, he insists that borsch is 100% Ukrainian.

(Credit: Raj Valley/Alamy)

(Credit: Raj Valley/Alamy)

"It was first mentioned in 1548 in the diary of a German traveller who tasted the soup in a market near Kyiv," he said. "But like many aspects of Ukrainian culture, it was absorbed and appropriated by the Soviet Union."

Klopotenko compares borsch with pizza. You can eat pizza in the US or China, but its roots are still deeply Italian. The same goes for borsch. 

"Borsch is one of our symbols that they wanted to take from us," he said. "I'm not on the front line, I'm on the food line. That's why I have to fight here."

That's why he turned to Unesco. As he saw it, they were an authoritative, international body that could back up Ukraine's cultural connection to borsch. Klopotenko and his supporters gathered 700 pages of documents and sent them over to the organisation. In July 2022, the culture of Ukrainian borsch cooking was inscribed into Unesco's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding.

"Ukrainian borsch […] is an integral part of Ukrainian family and community life," reads the decision, noting that the vote was fast-tracked given the ongoing war and "its negative impact on this tradition".

In lieu of visiting Ukraine, Klopotenko says there's no better way to understand Ukrainians and their strength than by cooking borsch. And while meat features prominently in many borsch recipes, Klopotenko points out that the dish started out vegetarian. Potatoes and tomatoes entered the equation following European colonisation of the Americas. Meat still didn't come until later on. 

"We started to add meat only like 150 years ago," he said. "Before that, it was just the beetroot and the vegetables you could find in the garden."

Klopotenko emphasises that there is no exact recipe for the dish. But for his vegetarian borsch, he starts with preparing the stock with celery root, onions and carrots.

"You boil it for 40 minutes," he explained. "And that gives you a nice base for the borsch. It's like the first layer."

The second layer brings "the intensity" of the beetroot, and Klopotenko advises using as much as you can. It doesn't matter if it's fresh, grated or baked, he said, and a little beetroot juice won't hurt either if you have it on hand.

For the third layer, you can add whatever local vegetables you have. Klopotenko said Ukrainians in the west will use mushrooms from the mountains. But he imagines that home cooks in London might turn to cabbage instead.

The final layer adds smokiness. The most popular method to achieve this a century ago was cooking the borsh in a wood-fired oven for about an hour. Now, people add a couple of tablespoons of smoked paprika. But another trick that Klopotenko said they'll do in Ukraine is adding a wood-smoked pear. This, he said, gives off a nice woody aroma.

Klopotenko also gives instructions for adding mushroom-stuffed vushka (dumplings) to the borsch, a vegetarian alternative to the more traditional pork ribs. For serving, you can adjust the acidity of the borsch by adding a little sour cream or yoghurt.

Ievgen Klopotenko's vegetarian borsch with vushka (Credit: klopotenko.com)

Ievgen Klopotenko's vegetarian borsch with vushka (Credit: klopotenko.com)

Vegetarian borsch with vushka (dumplings)
By Ievgen Klopotenko

(serves 6)

Time: 2 hours 50 minutes

Ingredients

For borsch broth
2 beetroots
150g red beans
3 litres, plus 150ml water
½ cabbage, quartered
1 carrot, washed and unpeeled
2 onions, halved
¼ celery root, peeled
2 tbsp oil
1 sweet red pepper, peeled
10 sprigs of parsley
3 bay leaves
5 dried allspice berries
½ tsp salt, plus extra to taste
1 lemon
1 tsp sugar

For vushka dough
300g flour
150ml water
⅔ tsp salt
2 tbsp oil, plus extra for sprinkling

For vushka stuffing
3 potatoes
1 onion
200g champignons or oyster mushrooms
100g white mushrooms (fresh or frozen)
50g dried white mushrooms
2 tbsp oil

Method 

Step 1
Soak the dried white mushrooms water for at least 30 minutes. Wash 2 beetroots, put them in a saucepan and fill with water. When the water boils, simmer the beetroots for one hour. Set aside. 

Step 2
Pour 150ml of cold water in a saucepan with the red beans. Cook them for 1 to 1.5 hours. Set aside. 

Step 3
In a saucepan with 3 litres of water, add cabbage, carrot, onion, celery root, sweet red pepper, parsley, allspice, bay leaves and salt to taste. Cook for 30 minutes on medium heat.

Step 4
Meanwhile, make the dough for the vushka. Mix 300g of flour, 150ml of water, 2 tbsp of oil and 2/3 tsp salt in a bowl. Knead dough until elastic. Cover and set aside for now.

Step 5
For the vushka stuffing, peel three potatoes and cut into medium pieces. Put them in a saucepan, fill with salted water and boil for about 25 minutes. When the potatoes are ready, mash them.

Step 6
Peel and dice an onion. Chop 200g of champignons or oyster mushrooms, 100g of fresh or frozen white mushrooms and 50g of soaked dried white mushrooms into small pieces.

Step 7
Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a frying pan, then add the onions and mushrooms, spreading them out. Add a little salt and fry until the moisture evaporates from the mushrooms.

Step 8
Combine mashed potatoes with fried mushrooms in a bowl. The stuffing for the vushka is ready.

Step 9
Sprinkle a little flour on the work surface and roll out the vushka dough in a thin layer. Form circles approximately 9.5cm in diameter (approximately the same as a drinking glass) out of the dough. Spread the potato and mushroom fillings onto the dough circles and fold the dough in half, encasing the filling, and pinch to close to form into vushka.

Step 10
Bring salted water to a boil in a saucepan and cook the vushka for three minutes. Place the prepared vushka in a bowl and sprinkle a little with oil.

Step 11
Peel and grate the two boiled beetroots and sprinkle with lemon juice, 1 tsp sugar and ½ tsp salt. Leave for one hour to marinate.

Step 12
Take all the vegetables out of the stock. Discard everything except for the carrots, then grate the carrots on a large grater. Add grated beets, carrots and boiled beans to the vegetable stock. Cook everything together for 10 minutes. 

Step 13
To serve, put five to six vushka in a bowl and fill with prepared borsch broth.

BBC.com's World's Table "smashes the kitchen ceiling" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future. 

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Thursday, February 23, 2023

30 dinners (and desserts) that can be eaten hot or cold - Good Food

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30 dinners (and desserts) that can be eaten hot or cold  Good Food

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Family Meal Plans: 3 Weeks of Weeknight Dinner Ideas - Parade Magazine

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Wednesday, February 22, 2023

How to Cook Rice in the Microwave - The New York Times

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It may seem sacrilegious to stovetop loyalists, but when it comes to consistency, this household appliance is a weeknight meal’s best friend.

I cook my rice in the microwave. Not because the microwave makes it taste extra special — but because it is one of the most convenient ways to achieve consistently well-cooked rice.

The microwave can be essential for putting together meals on busy nights. Yet in many kitchens, it is merely a tool for reheating leftovers or making popcorn.

“There is a stigma to using your microwave” for cooking, said Ali Rosen, the author of the cookbooks “Bring It!” and “Modern Freezer Meals.” And that’s especially true of cooking rice. “Because rice is such a deeply ingrained part of so many cultures, it takes on this mythical quality — it is not the thing you should be using the shortcut for.”



As a young food writer, Ms. Rosen said she believed — as did many chefs and cooking experts at the time — that using a stovetop “must be the correct way” to cook rice.

But as she advanced in her career, she realized that microwaving rice was more practical. It doesn’t require monitoring or stirring, and “you aren’t worried about it sticking to the bottom,” she said.

Microwaving rice also results in more uniformly cooked grains than the stovetop method, said Kevin Pang, the digital editorial director at America’s Test Kitchen. Whereas stovetops can often heat rice unevenly, causing some of it to get either scorched or undercooked, a microwave, which operates via electromagnetic waves that vibrate water molecules in the food to create heat, cooks from all sides.

Mr. Pang also owns a rice cooker, which has its own benefits: It automatically adjusts the cooking temperature and keeps rice warm for a long time. But rice cookers also take up additional counter space and have only one function, he added.

In reporting for this article, I tried about a dozen different methods of cooking rice in the microwave. Some involved changing the power settings partway through; others instructed covering the rice for half of the time. One even called for boiled water.

But the method that worked every time was also the simplest: rinsing the rice thoroughly, adding double the amount of water, and microwaving, uncovered, for 15 to 25 minutes, depending on the wattage of the machine. It may take a few attempts to figure out the exact timing for your microwave — in my 700-watt machine, it takes 22 and a half minutes — but once you do, you won’t have to think twice about it.

Newer microwaves may cut that time even further, said Eric Brown, a principal research scientist at the consumer packaged goods company ConAgra Brands. Many newer microwave models have fans that move air around more efficiently and turntables that rotate faster, resulting in quicker cook times.

Once you find a cook time that works, you can attempt more dressed-up rice dishes. Growing up, my father would add cumin, turmeric, ghee and frozen vegetables to the rice before placing it in the microwave to make a quick pulao. Mr. Pang likes to place marinated chicken pieces over the rice partway through cooking, letting the chicken steam while infusing the rice with its juices.

Of course, your microwave will never be able to provide those irresistibly crispy grains at the bottom of the pot. But on a weeknight, I’m willing to take shortcuts for expediency. And I certainly never miss scrubbing the pot.

Recipe: Microwave Rice

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Friday, February 17, 2023

A Fast Orange Rolls Recipe - The New York Times

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Whether or not you have nostalgia for these breakfast treats, you’ll want to bake these homemade ones from Genevieve Ko.

It’s easy to forget that citrus has a season unless you live among the trees, somewhere warm where you can catch its daydream scent with the winter breeze. If you know that magic, you want to capture it. If you don’t, you want to experience it. There’s a hint of it when peeling an orange, but its full embrace comes in the warmth of sweet rolls.



Freshly grated orange zest perfumes the sugar that sweetens the dough and filling.Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

Perfumed with fresh orange zest in the dough, filling and glaze, these citrusy cinnamon rolls come together in less than an hour, thanks to a fluffy, tender base that doesn’t require yeast. The fruit’s tangy juice blends with cream cheese for an icing that slouches, then sinks, into the spiced spirals.

The most commonly known orange rolls come from Pillsbury and inspire intense nostalgia in those who woke up to them on Sunday mornings. But long before they were sealed into popping blue tubes, orange rolls came from made-by-hand recipes.

Brown sugar generously spread then spiraled and baked into dough melts in the oven, creating gooey centers and crackly caramelized bottoms for orange rolls.Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

I don’t have an attachment to the Pillsbury rolls, but I’ll never forget the sugary orange rolls I had in Alabama, where they’re widely beloved, at Bogue’s Restaurant in Birmingham. To recreate anything approximating those crackling yet melting buns requires hours and the talent and muscle memory of Ella Irby, the longtime baker at Bogue’s, which closed last fall after 84 years in business.

But, to capture the citrus sunshine of orange rolls and make them doable for anyone (especially non-morning people like me), I started with a quick biscuit technique that relies on baking powder. Unlike yeast, which requires hours to work, baking powder puffs dough instantly. On her website, The Food Historian, Sarah Wassberg Johnson writes that there were recipes for orange rolls with biscuit dough from 1916 onward.

Freshly glazed orange rolls taste best when served warm — or even hot.Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

My version has that old-fashioned feel, an easy-like-Sunday-morning breakfast from simpler times. But it also includes modern additions to help the short-dough bun end up as soft as any yeasted treat. The trick is to rub cream cheese along with the butter into the flour and also to add more milk — or, even better, half-and-half. Rich cream cheese keeps the dough tender and gives it a sweet tang, and more liquid prevents the dough from drying out. Freezing the sticky dough while preparing the pan and filling helps it firm up for smoother rolling.

The most important part of these rolls is the fresh orange zest, plump with fragrant, flavorful citrus oils. Lightly grating the fruit directly over the brown sugar ensures that the spritzes of oil don’t end up wasted on a cutting board or bowl. (Avoid hitting the white pith beneath the skin, as it’s bitter.) Gently rubbing that zest into the sugar further releases its aroma. A few spoonfuls sweeten the dough itself, while the rest is blended with cinnamon or a combination of cinnamon and cardamom, and snailed into a roll. When that filling melts in the oven, the natural moisture in the brown sugar creates gooey centers and caramelized bottoms.

To complement the fleece-blanket comfort of the buns, a mound of orange zest freshens up a cream cheese glaze and tints it the color of a sunrise. As the icing runs rivulets over the hot rolls, its aroma intensifies, filling the kitchen and stirring nostalgia or the promise of new memories.

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Best Sheet Cake Recipes - The New York Times

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They’re low fuss, feed a crowd and travel well.

A lofty layered cake is a lovely thing when the occasion calls for one, but sheet cakes, while maybe not quite as impressive, have a lot going for them. Not only are they easier to bake — no annoying trimming or crumb coatings required — but they also feed a crowd and travel well, so you might just find yourself making cake more often. And who doesn’t need more cake in their life? Here are 11 of our favorite sheet cake recipes, including Texas sheet cake, tres leches cake and St. Louis gooey butter cake.

Bryan Gardner for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Genevieve Ko’s riff on the fudgy classic calls for sprinkling the top of the cake with chopped pecans instead of stirring them into the frosting. If you like a bit of salt with your sweets, scatter the top with flaky sea salt before serving.

Craig Lee for The New York Times

Impossibly lush yet somehow light, Samantha Seneviratne’s cake is soaked with a combination of three milks: whole, condensed and evaporated. The whipped cream on top tempers the sweetness.

Recipe: Tres Leches Cake

Romulo Yanes for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Vivian Lui.

The happiest cake in all the land, Kiera Wright-Ruiz’s adaptation of Alana Kysar’s cake is moist and tender from pink guava concentrate. If you can’t find pink guava concentrate, you can use white, and add a few drops of red or pink food coloring.

Recipe: Hawaiian Guava Cake

Aubrie Pick for The New York Times

Lemon cakes are always a hit. This one from Yossy Arefi is tender and tangy from a quarter-cup of lemon juice in the batter, as well as lemon zest and juice in the buttercream frosting.

Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Mochiko, or sweet rice flour, gives this big-batch dessert a chewy marshmallowy texture and lends it a natural sweetness. You can serve this crackly surfaced cake without frosting, or top it with a tangy passion fruit glaze. (Ombré optional.)

Recipe: Butter Mochi

Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Susan Spungen.

This buttery yellow cake with chocolate-sour cream frosting from Erin Jeanne McDowell is the sheet cake dreams are made of. If you’re hosting a birthday party, double the recipe for a half-sheet pan, and go wild with the sprinkles.

Recipe: Yellow Sheet Cake With Chocolate Frosting

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Eugene Jho.

Let’s all thank Yossy Arefi, the queen of snacking cakes, for this delicate and tender applesauce cake topped with fluffy, spiced cream cheese frosting. For a little texture, add a cup of chopped fresh apple or a half-cup of chopped pecans or walnuts to the batter.

Recipe: Apple Sheet Cake With Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting

Melina Hammer for The New York Times

Namoura is a Lebanese cake made from semolina flour and soaked in syrup while it’s still warm, so it’s sticky sweet in the best way possible. Amanda Saab, a social worker and home cook who lives near Detroit, from whom this was adapted, likes to add a little lavender extract to the syrup, but you could also use rose or vanilla.

Recipe: Namoura (Syrup-Soaked Semolina Cake)

Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Eric Kim’s pound cake is rich with cream cheese and butter, then finished with a layer of raspberry preserves, lightly salted whipped cream and a generous sprinkling of crushed freeze-dried raspberries.

Recipe: Cream Cheese Pound Cake

Craig Lee for The New York Times

OK, so no, it’s not exactly a cake, but these cheesecake bars from Samantha Seneviratne have all of the (crowd-pleasing, easily transported) benefits of a sheet cake. They’re also no-bake, which means less futzing in the kitchen.

Recipe: No-Bake Cheesecake Bars

Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

The possibly true story goes like this: In the 1930s, a St. Louis baker mixed up the proportion of butter in one of his coffee cakes. Instead of tossing it, he sold it by the square, and it was a hit. This yeast-risen, five-star version is adapted from Molly Killeen, a St. Louis native and the owner of Made by Molly.

Recipe: St. Louis Gooey Butter Cake

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Ravneet Gill’s recipe for rhubarb galette - The Guardian

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I always look forward to forced rhubarb season. One of my favourite ever trips was to visit Rhubarb Robert, a farmer in Yorkshire, who showed me how they grow and force rhubarb into the wonderful, neon-pink stuff that we use in restaurants at this time of year. The sheds are lit with candles and you can actually hear the rhubarb popping as it grows. Fascinating.

Rhubarb galette

This galette uses double cream in the dough, which helps to bring it together and bake into a crumbly pastry. It works well with something savoury, too, such as pumpkin, cheese and pesto.

Prep 10 min
Chill 4 hr+
Cook 45 min
Serves 4

For the pastry
120g wholemeal flour
A
pinch of salt
50g cold unsalted butter
, cubed
50ml double cream
10g caster sugar

For the filling
200g rhubarb
60g light brown sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
1 egg
, beaten

For the pastry, combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and, using your fingertips, rub it into the flour until the mixture resembles very fine breadcrumbs.

Pour in the cream and caster sugar, and bring the mixture together to make a loose dough (it won’t be really wet – it should be almost slightly dry, but that’s a good thing). Tip out the dough on to a work surface and use your hands to work it into a disc. Wrap tightly in greaseproof paper or clingfilm, and chill for at least four hours.

Cut the rhubarb into 3-4cm pieces and toss with the brown sugar and lemon zest.

Heat the oven to 185C (165C fan)/360F/gas 4½. Roll out the pastry into a 25cm-diameter circle and place on a greased and lined oven tray. Pile the rhubarb up in the middle, leaving a 5cm border all around the edge, then fold the edges up over the sides of the rhubarb, to create a ridge. Brush all the exposed pastry with the beaten egg.

Bake for 45 minutes, until the edges are golden and the rhubarb is soft to the touch, then remove and leave to cool before serving with creme fraiche or pouring cream.

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A Fast Orange Rolls Recipe - The New York Times

stratupnation.blogspot.com

Whether or not you have nostalgia for these breakfast treats, you’ll want to bake these homemade ones from Genevieve Ko.

It’s easy to forget that citrus has a season unless you live among the trees, somewhere warm where you can catch its daydream scent with the winter breeze. If you know that magic, you want to capture it. If you don’t, you want to experience it. There’s a hint of it when peeling an orange, but its full embrace comes in the warmth of sweet rolls.



Freshly grated orange zest perfumes the sugar that sweetens the dough and filling.Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

Perfumed with fresh orange zest in the dough, filling and glaze, these citrusy cinnamon rolls come together in less than an hour, thanks to a fluffy, tender base that doesn’t require yeast. The fruit’s tangy juice blends with cream cheese for an icing that slouches, then sinks, into the spiced spirals.

The most commonly known orange rolls come from Pillsbury and inspire intense nostalgia in those who woke up to them on Sunday mornings. But long before they were sealed into popping blue tubes, orange rolls came from made-by-hand recipes.

Brown sugar generously spread then spiraled and baked into dough melts in the oven, creating gooey centers and crackly caramelized bottoms for orange rolls.Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

I don’t have an attachment to the Pillsbury rolls, but I’ll never forget the sugary orange rolls I had in Alabama, where they’re widely beloved, at Bogue’s Restaurant in Birmingham. To recreate anything approximating those crackling yet melting buns requires hours and the talent and muscle memory of Ella Irby, the longtime baker at Bogue’s, which closed last fall after 84 years in business.

But, to capture the citrus sunshine of orange rolls and make them doable for anyone (especially non-morning people like me), I started with a quick biscuit technique that relies on baking powder. Unlike yeast, which requires hours to work, baking powder puffs dough instantly. On her website, The Food Historian, Sarah Wassberg Johnson writes that there were recipes for orange rolls with biscuit dough from 1916 onward.

Freshly glazed orange rolls taste best when served warm — or even hot.Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

My version has that old-fashioned feel, an easy-like-Sunday-morning breakfast from simpler times. But it also includes modern additions to help the short-dough bun end up as soft as any yeasted treat. The trick is to rub cream cheese along with the butter into the flour and also to add more milk — or, even better, half-and-half. Rich cream cheese keeps the dough tender and gives it a sweet tang, and more liquid prevents the dough from drying out. Freezing the sticky dough while preparing the pan and filling helps it firm up for smoother rolling.

The most important part of these rolls is the fresh orange zest, plump with fragrant, flavorful citrus oils. Lightly grating the fruit directly over the brown sugar ensures that the spritzes of oil don’t end up wasted on a cutting board or bowl. (Avoid hitting the white pith beneath the skin, as it’s bitter.) Gently rubbing that zest into the sugar further releases its aroma. A few spoonfuls sweeten the dough itself, while the rest is blended with cinnamon or a combination of cinnamon and cardamom, and snailed into a roll. When that filling melts in the oven, the natural moisture in the brown sugar creates gooey centers and caramelized bottoms.

To complement the fleece-blanket comfort of the buns, a mound of orange zest freshens up a cream cheese glaze and tints it the color of a sunrise. As the icing runs rivulets over the hot rolls, its aroma intensifies, filling the kitchen and stirring nostalgia or the promise of new memories.

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