From the same family as cucumbers, squashes and melons, courgettes are very versatile, and are at their best and most affordable between June and September. Go for smaller, firmer ones for salads, marinades or grilling, while larger specimens work best roasted, fried or braised. If you have the space to grow some yourself, you will already know how well they can crop, and if you’re anything like me, you’ll always be on the lookout for new things to do with them, which is how today’s first recipe came about.
Slow-cooked garlic courgettes with bulgur pilaf
Slow cooking turns courgettes wonderfully rich, and once you’ve mastered the approach, there are many variations on the theme. My friend, the fabulous chef Laura Jackson, who co-owns the lovely canal-side Towpath cafe in east London, makes an especially delicious stew with braised courgettes, white beans and saffron that she serves with minty creme fraiche. The pilaf, meanwhile, is loosely based on a recipe from one of the gorgeous Moro cookbooks that I’ve been making for years. I like to serve this with a bowl of seasoned yoghurt.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 15 min
Serves 4
3 tbsp light olive oil
30g butter
4 courgettes (500g), washed, trimmed and cut into 1cm-thick coins (if they are fat, cut them in half lengthwise first)
Sea salt and black pepper
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed or finely grated
A few soft herb leaves – mint, basil or oregano (optional)
Seasoned yoghurt, to serve (optional)
For the pilaf
20g butter
2 tbsp light olive oil
4 spring onions, lightly trimmed and sliced
1 tsp chilli flakes
200g bulgur wheat
300ml vegetable stock
A squeeze of lemon
1 small handful parsley, roughly chopped
In a large pan for which you have a lid, heat the light olive oil and butter, add the courgettes and a generous dose of salt, and leave them to come up to a good heat, shaking the pan from time to time. When they start sizzling, turn down the heat, stir in the garlic, cover and leave to cook gently for 20-30 minutes, until the courgettes are collapsing – check on them every now and again, and give them a stir and a squish. Take off the lid, turn up the heat a little and cook to reduce the liquid that will have accumulated in the pan – you’re after a thick, spoonable consistency. Season to taste, cover again and leave to sit on a very low heat until the pilaf is ready – the courgettes will sit happily for ages.
For the pilaf, melt the butter and oil on a medium heat, add the spring onions and chilli flakes, and soften, stirring regularly, for five minutes. Add the bulgur and a generous pinch of salt, stir to coat, then add the stock and bring to a simmer. Cover the pan, leave to simmer for five minutes, then stir thoroughly to make sure nothing’s sticking to the bottom of the pan. Turn down the heat to low, cover and cook for five minutes more. Stir in the lemon juice and parsley, season to taste, then take off the heat and leave to rest for five minutes.
Stir the soft herbs into the courgettes. Spoon the pilaf on to warmed plates, top with the courgettes and serve with some seasoned yoghurt, if using.
Courgette-stuffed bread
These very simple breads can be cooked in a frying pan as well as in the oven, as here – I usually bake them, though, so I can go and do other things while they’re cooking. Serve with a salad and some chutney to cut through the cheesy goodness.
Prep 10 min
Steep 1 hr
Cook 50 min
Serves 4
2 large courgettes, trimmed and coarsely grated (about 380g)
1 large red onion, peeled and finely sliced
Sea salt and black pepper
About 150g yoghurt
360g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed or finely grated
1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely diced (optional)
150g hard cheese, coarsely grated – whatever suits your tastes and pocket
1 tbsp light olive oil
Put the courgettes and onion in a bowl, add a good pinch of salt and toss to combine. Set a colander over another bowl, tip in the courgette mix and press it down to squeeze out some of the liquid. Cover the courgettes with a clean cloth, weigh down with some tins or a heavy pan, then leave to drip away for an hour or so – this liquid will later be used in the flatbreads.
Measure out the liquid in the bowl – you should have about 100ml or so. Add water to top it up to 200ml, then stir in the yoghurt and set aside.
Put the flour in a bowl, make a well in the centre, add most of the courgette liquid and yoghurt mix, and use your hands to work the mix until it comes together into a shaggy dough; if need be, add the rest of the liquid. Turn out on to a lightly floured surface, knead until smooth, divide into four and roll into balls.
Heat the oven to 230C (210C fan)/450F/gas 8 and put in two large oven trays. Meanwhile, mix the grated courgette mixture with the garlic, chilli and cheese, and season to taste.
Using your hands or a rolling pin, roll out one ball on a floured worktop into a 1cm-thick circle and spoon a quarter of the courgette mix into the centre. Gently gather the edges, bring them up and over the filling to cover it completely, then pinch all around to seal very well. Flour the worktop and your hands, then press out each bread into a flat, 2½cm-deep disc: the top will be thinner than the bottom, so don’t worry if any small holes appear or there is a little seepage.
Drizzle some olive oil on to the heated baking sheets and lay two breads on each tray. Drizzle each bread with some more oil and bake for about 25-30 minutes, until golden.
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Rosie Sykes is a chef and food writer. Her next book, Every Last Bite: 70 Recipes to Save Time, Money and Resources, will be published by Quadrille next year.
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